Villars World Cup: two French qualified in the final!  PlanetGrimpe - All climbing news

Villars World Cup: two French qualified in the final! PlanetGrimpe – All climbing news

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The bouldering season being over, Mejdi Schalck is now focusing on difficulty, and will play his first final tonight © Vladek Zumr

For the first time this season, two Frenchmen will compete in the finals of the World Cup in difficulty in Villars, which will take place this evening.

Manon Hily and Mejdi Schalck in the final!

Close, but it happened. Manon Hily and Mejdi Schalck both managed to get into the top 8 of the semi-finals. And it is largely thanks to their qualification yesterday that they won their ticket to the finals.

Indeed, Manon Hily fell in a very physical passage, just before exiting the overhang. A place that will have been fatal to three other climbers, who therefore rank between positions 7 and 10. How were they decided? Following the results of the qualifications of the day before. Our Frenchwoman, having performed well yesterday, won the eighth and last qualifying place for the finals.

The scenario is exactly the same for Mejdi Schalck. Elbows up, he is caught by gravity just before coming out of the overhang, falling on the same movement as three other competitors. They too will be separated following the results of the day before, and Mejdi will take the eighth position, qualifying narrowly for the finals, which will begin at 8:00 p.m.

In her last final at Villars, Manon Hily finished 4th. Will she be on the podium tonight?© Vladek Zumr

Our seven other French present in the semi-finals do not manage to express themselves perfectly today. It lacked a valuation Helene Janicot (11th) to qualify for the final, she who falls on the same hold as Manon Hily. Same verdict for Paul Jenftwho falls to a hold of the final. Julia Chanourdie (16th) falls straight downhill, while Salome Roman (15th) is thrown into the air a few movements further, after trying to achieve a knee jam. Finally, Diego Fourbet took 16th place, ahead of Romaric Geffroy (23rd) who makes a mistake at the start of the route and Hugo Parmentier (26th), which unfortunately zips from the start of the route.

Americans in great shape!

Decidedly, the American climbers are in great shape this season! After shining on the international scene as a whole, it is now in difficulty that they shine. After Colin Duffy’s win in Innsbruck last week, USA once again top the semi-final standings today.

Because, Jesse Grupper and Colin Duffy will be the two climbers to climb the highest in the route this morning. Even if they don’t manage to top the lane (Grupper will zip his foot two movements from the end), they will be the most comfortable in this particularly physical route. They who had already been on the podium in Innsbruck, find themselves again at the forefront in Villars this weekend.

The American Colin Duffy is definitely THE climber of the moment! © IFSC

In the final, they will face a Japanese team that looks formidable. As in bouldering, the Japanese climbers remain in their standard since half of the finalists will wear the Japanese jersey this evening! We will find in particular Yoshiyuki Ogatawinner of the general classification of the Bouldering World Cups, as well asAo Yuriusawho finished first in qualifying yesterday.

1 – Jesse Grupper
2 – Colin Duffy
3 – Satone Yoshida
4 – Yannick Flohe
5 – Yoshiyuki Ogata
6 – Ao Yurikusa
7 – Taisei Homma
8 – Mejdi Schalck

The full results of the men’s semi-final

Janja Garnbret reclaims her throne

It is hung on one arm, feet in the void, that Janja Garnbret clipped the semi-final lane relay. A performance that allows him to recover his usual place. Because remember, yesterday, during qualifying, Janja was ranked 4th, after falling in her second lane. Brooke Raboutou then took the opportunity to monopolize first place in the standings, linking the two qualifying routes.

Janja Garnbret easily clipped the stint from the semi-final lane this morning © Vladek Zumr

But today, the Slovenian made all her experience speak and managed to thwart all the traps concocted by the openers. So much so that she is the only climber to climb to the top of the route. A dozen movements below, we find the Korean Chaehyun Seo, silver medalist in Innsbruck last week. She falls out of the roof, just like Brooke Raboutouwho remains in the race by taking third place in the semi-finals.

1 – Janja Garnbret
2 – Chaehyun Seo
3 – Brooke Raboutou
4 – Ryu Nakagawa
5 – Laura Rogora
6 – Natsuki Tanii
7 – Natalia Grossman
8 – Manon Hily

The full results of the women’s semi-final

The rest of the program

Saturday July 2:

8:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.: Men’s difficulty final
9:00 p.m. – 10:00 p.m.: Women’s difficulty final

Read also

Villars World Cup: qualifying results

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