Villars World Cup: summary of the finals PlanetGrimpe - All the climbing news

Villars World Cup: summary of the finals PlanetGrimpe – All the climbing news

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© Vladek Zumr

The second difficult World Cup of the season has just ended in Villars. In the men’s category, the Japanese Taisei Homma won his first gold medal, while in the women’s category, Janja Garnbret was unstoppable, winning his sixth consecutive victory in Villars!

Complete summary of these finals.

Japanese victory in men

The men’s final got off to a strong start! The setters had decided to start the route with a skate, a dynamic movement that has become a classic in bouldering. But this random start will not worry the competitors. It must be said that of the eight finalists of the evening, four have won a bouldering World Cup this season (Yoshiyuki Ogata, Yannick Flohé, Colin Duffy and Mejdi Schalck).

Mejdi Schalck was also the first climber to launch it. Having narrowly secured his place in the final, our Frenchman had everything to gain tonight. It makes short work of the first movement, then gradually returns to the rhythm of the route. Unfortunately, in the middle of a bow pass, Mejdi chooses to keep his heel hook straight, rather than using his tailstock. He must therefore take more risks to get the next arch, and falls, not managing to gain the swing. He will take 7th place in this final.

© Vladek Zumr

The route, meticulously prepared by the setters, will make it possible to decide between the rest of the finalists to perfection, since no climber will fall in the same place. In this particularly technically and physically demanding route, it is Taisei Homma wins, bringing another medal to Japan. He who narrowly qualified for the finals, will achieve the best performance of the evening, falling on an uncrossed movement located just under the top of the route. Three years ago, he was already on the podium at the World Cup in Xiamen, China, and took silver. Tonight, he offers his first international victory.

In Innsbruck I was very sad with my result, so this time I said to myself that I had to do my best. First of all, I tried to concentrate on my climbing, to be myself. In the semi-finals, I wasn’t very happy with my performance, but I received a lot of messages from my Japanese friends. That’s why I did my best in the final, under the encouragement of my Japanese friends. »

Taisei Homma


Behind him, two Americans complete the podium. After securing bronze in Innsbruck last week, Jesse Grupper step up on the podium. First in the semi-finals, he achieved the second best performance of the evening, falling just two movements behind the Japanese. his compatriot Colin Duffy offers himself his third consecutive podium! Winner of the World Cup in Innsbruck in bouldering and in difficulty, the American won bronze, after zipping with his foot when he still seemed forward under the elbow.

The results of the men’s final

Janja Garnbret puts on a show!

Villars has no other champion than Janja Garnbret. In 2016, when the small Swiss village hosted a World Cup stage for the first time, Janja was already winning. In 2017, she did the same. Then in 2018, 2019, 2021 and now 2022. Each year, the same scenario is repeated: the Slovenian wins gold in Switzerland. And tonight, she did it in the best possible way, being the only one to go through to the final.

As with the men, the openers had concocted random moves in this final route. First a big side throw located midway, which will also be fatal to three of the eight finalists. Then, two last dynamic movements, which Janja Garnbret will realize to perfection, enough to afford his 34th victory in the World Cup.

I’m so happy, it was one of the best routes on the circuit. I feel like I climbed smoothly and had fun on this route. I climbed very fast, and really enjoyed the moment. In Innsbruck, I felt a little “rusty” because I hadn’t done any competition apart from Meiringen this year, but after the semi-finals, I felt in the game and I was able to do the same in Villars, so that’s awesome!

I have the impression that this final was easier than in Innsbruck. Last weekend’s final route was definitely the toughest I’ve ever climbed. That one seemed even harder to me while reading, but the hardest part was actually just the last two moves. I really enjoyed myself in it! »

Janja Garnbret


Before her, the two Americans also reached the last part of the wall. Natalia Grossman fell at the end of his tether in the last section on small holds, while Brooke Raboutou, who seemed fresher, fell opting for a static method in the penultimate movement. They both climb on the podium, bringing the number of American medals to four tonight!

However, do you know who made the most moves in this final route? This is Manon Hily. For the simple and good reason that our Frenchwoman will have made two passages in the route. First competitor to start, she fell in the throw located halfway. Back on the ground, she indicated that she was hampered by the rope, which would have been too tight by her belayer at the time of the throw, cutting her momentum. After video analysis, the judges decide to grant him a second passage in the route. This time, Manon succeeds in the throw and will continue another ten movements further, finishing 5th in this final.

© Vladek Zumr

The results of the women’s final

Next meeting in Chamonix next weekend, with a new World Cup of difficulty and speed. And like every year, PG will be there to make you experience the event from the inside!

Read also

Villars World Cup: two French qualified in the final!

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